Sunday, July 19, 2020

Russell Island



Russell Island
12 July

After a few days of stress and toil, acquiring parts, completing repairs and re-provisioning, we were joined by Alan’s sister, Gil at our new home port, Maple Bay Marina near Duncan BC. Gil will be  be our guest for the next 7 days.

Our plan is to circumnavigate Salt Spring Island, the largest Island in the Southern  Gulf Islands chain and explore some of the local highlights.



Night one, we anchored off the picturesque Russell Island, a small island just south of Salt Spring Island.


This is a popular anchorage with good holding. 
The park provides a dinghy dock, which allowed us to get some exercise as we enjoyed walking the trail around part of the island, ending up at the restored historic home.




The old Mahoi/Fischer homestead


Russell Island is now part of the
Gulf Islands National Park Reserve and has an interesting history and Hawaiian connection, dating back to the late 1700’s and the Northwest Coast fur trade. When the Hawaiians (or Kanaka as they are known in their language) became involved in the maritime fur trade, sea otter pelts were being traded in Asia and at this time the Hawaiian Islands became a natural stopover between North America and Asia. The Kanaka became employees of the various fur trade companies, including the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC). Over time, small Hawaiian settlements began to form around HBC posts in both Canada and the United States. When the United States government began passing legislation which prevented the Kanaka people from becoming American citizens or owning land, many Kanaka people moved to Canada. By the 1870s, the Kanaka began settling in the Gulf Islands. 
Maria Mahoi had previously lived on Salt Spring Island with her first husband Captain Abel Douglas and their seven children. After being  identified in Haumea's will as the sole heir to Russell Island, Maria moved back to Russell Island in 1902 with her second husband George Fisher. George Fisher was the child of an English father and a Cowichan mother. The Mahoi/Fisher family expanded with six more children.
The Mahoi/Fisher family continued to build on the work begun by Haumea on Russell Island by maintaining the cleared land and adding to the orchard and strawberry field.
Russell Island remained in Kanaka hands until 1959 when it was sold to a local. It was later sold to the Pacific Marine Heritage Legacy in 1997. The island has subsequently become part of Gulf Islands National Park Reserve.


A beautiful sunset was enjoyed on the back deck of Kaos.





Tuesday, July 14, 2020

Wallace Island


Wallace Island
14 July

Wallace Island Marine Provincial Park is only accessible by boat. This park lies in Trincomali Channel between Galiano Island and the northern tip of Saltspring Island, off southern Vancouver Island. Boats can enter the sheltered anchorages at Princess Bay and Conover Cove from Houston Channel.





Princess Cove

We read great reviews on Wallace Island and departed Ganges Harbour for Wallace. We poked our nose into Conover Cove first, but the bays looked full with a few boats anchoring and most stern tying to shore. It was just too tight for us at 55’ so we moved up to Princess Cove. There were a couple of boats swinging at anchor, but they were smaller than us. 

We found a spot to stern tie, a skill we have not yet mastered and proceeded to provide the cove with some entertainment. Little did we know that the fun had not yet begun!

Stern-tie, drop anchor out front, then back in and tie rope from stern of the boat and tie to tree, rock or chain ashore.
Aerial shot of Princess Cove

Bald eagles



After a walk ashore and a dinghy excursion with Gill, we disembarked, tied the dinghy to the boat and relaxed until Happy Hour.

Princess Cove is narrow and shortly before 6pm, the wind blew up and just howled through the cove, causing Kaos to act as a sail and drift sideways towards other boats. I was enjoying a shower when the engines started, and I could hear voices …… not a good sign! Once the engines went into gear, I knew all was not well and dashed out of the shower, wet hair and pulling on underpants and shirt as I ran up the stairs. Alan had cast off the stern line to release the tension and I had to climb in the dinghy, half clothed and retrieve the line. 

Mission accomplished, we drifted into the middle of the anchorage and remained safely swinging on anchor for the rest of the evening. It is times like this when the boat humbles the crew that I so wish she were named anything but Kaos!

Now it was time for cocktails and relaxation before dinner.



We viewed the setting sun aboard, vowing not to stern tie again.



Conover Cove

Next morning, we upped anchor and headed the short distance down to Conover Cove. We were hopeful that some boats may have left, creating space and our hunch was correct.

We spent part of the day walking and exploring Conover Cove.



The park provides limited dock space, dinghy dock, walk-in camp sites and trails.

It is funky and what remains of a 1950's  resort. Some of the original buildings remain.



The funky gathering spot for campers and boaters is closed due to Covid. Boaters and visitors leave mementos as decoration.





A short but pleasant visit. 
We felt we were rather large and taking up to much space in this small cove. After lunch we headed off to spend the night at Montague Harbour.


Sunday, July 12, 2020

Boho Bay, Lasqueti Island


Boho Bay – Lasqueti Island
4 July

Our son & daughter-in-law departed Courtney Marina at 5am for a 7:30 am ferry from Victoria to the British Columbia mainland and their drive home to Calgary Alberta. Since we were up, it seemed a waste to not capitalize on calm travel time out on the Straits of Georgia. We tossed the lines off and left the dock shortly after 6am. We were headed south toward Maple Bay Marina, our new home base. The decision was to stop half way and we chose to explore anchorage options on Lasqueti Island, selecting to drop anchor in beautiful Boho Bay.



This protected, picturesque bay had us thinking we would enjoy a two day stop here. Wrong!

Susann could here a motor constantly running and later discovered that the float switch in the lazarette (rear bilge) was not working. Subsequently, we learned that the bilge pump in the shower sump had given up the ghost. It had quit working and the shower water that drained into the sump was not being pumped overboard.

After a dinghy explore, we realized that there was water accumulating on the dinghy floor and further investigation discovered that another  bilge pump had ceased operation. We bailed the water out of the dinghy but it seemed to come back as quickly as we bailed. Not a good sign! We opted to hoist the dink and head for home base early next morning and complete the repairs. All well and good until our crane quit working as the dink was half way hoisted up on the boat. Really not good! People wonder how we came to name the boat Kaos …. duh! Thankfully the crane was able to lower the dink back into the water. Alan did some trouble shooting and detected some screw holes that someone had drilled and not sealed. He baled and did his best to seal the leak. Finally, the water intrusion ceased, meaning we could tow the dink to Maple Bay.

All this excitement necessitated a happy hour bottle of wine to calm us down. We enjoyed dinner, sunset and a peaceful evening after all the stress from a crazy day.



A beautiful full moon rising was enjoyed as a beautiful, calming end to a busy, stressful day.





Saturday, July 11, 2020

Tenedos Bay

Tenedos Bay
June 30 & July 1 

After spending two beautiful days in Drew Harbour (Heriot Bay), my favorite anchorage, I reluctantly agreed it was time to move on. We opted to  head to Tenedos Bay, one of Alan’s favorite anchorages, 

We upped anchor shortly after 7am and enjoyed a quiet, smooth 25mile run to Tenedos Bay, located on the mainland side of Desolation Sound.





We enjoyed sunny days, although the wind was cool at times. Although there were numerous boats anchored in the large bay, Canada Day (July 1) was a quiet un-eventful day. Not sure if this was a result of the Covid pandemic or people just looking for a tranquil escape from reality aboard their boats. In true Canadian fashion, we celebrated Canada Day with BBQ burgers and a fine glass of wine.


Above is another view from our galley window. Once again, washing dishes by hand is much less of a chore with views like this to enjoy.



Each day we took the dinghy and explored the many coves and hidey-holes. At low tide, we spied a harbor seal sunning itself on an exposed rock and later saw numerous seals doing the same next day.







I am always amazed at the tenacity of the trees like this arbutus tree, seemingly growing out of the rock with little or no soil to sustain it.

Due to my pinched nerve and weak leg, we chose not to venture ashore for the hike to Unwin Lake, a short distance from the beach where boaters love to swim in the warm, fresh water.

Tomorrow we head to Courtney on Vancouver Island to meet up with our son Adrian for one night.


Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Rebecca Spit, Quadra Island


Rebecca Spit Marine Park (Drew Harbour, Quadra Island South)

June 26 - 30

Finally, after two weeks of mandatory quarantine and the completion of the boat detailing, we cast off the lines and departed Discovery Harbour Marina just before noon. After two, sunny, warm days, we thought summer had finally arrived. The locals tell us that this spring has been unusually rainy and cool, and true to form, it was raining as we departed the marina. The forecast is set to clear this evening with the promise of a sunny, warm weekend.

We encountered a flood tide out in the Discovery Passage, pushing against a 6-knot current which created some rage. We spotted what we originally thought were large porpoises off our port side, but we soon realized these were likely young orcas. All we saw were their fins above the water and then they were gone. We stopped the boat as required but had no further sightings.

We dropped anchor in Drew Bay, just off Rebecca Spit (one of our favorite anchorages) about 2:30. It was still light rain, but the skies cleared, and the sun greeted us in time for Happy Hour.


Next morning was bright and sunny but very windy. The steady 15 knot winds made for a roly day at anchor. We were comfortable but some of the smaller boats had a rough day. We remained aboard all day. From the boat we watched a small family group assembled out on the point. Individually, each person approached the water’s edge, throwing something out over the water. Watching the clouds of dust blow out over the water made us realize that this was someone’s ash scattering ceremony. It was a touching sight to witness.

Sunday morning, the wind had calmed considerably, and we enjoyed a short explore in the dinghy, followed by a walk around this beautiful spit. 






The day turned out to be one of those perfect days, sunny, calm and temperatures in the high 70’s. Many of the locals swam off the beach but with water temps of 64F, it was to cold for these two Texans.
We have been watching a pair of bald eagles carry fish up into the top of the trees for the past few days. There is a nest somewhere close by but we were unable to see it. They are a magnificent bird.

 A good bottle of wine and a steak dinner out on the deck was the perfect end to a gorgeous day.

I never mind washing dishes in this anchorage. The view from my galley window could keep me at the sink all day.

Tuesday morning was cloudy and windy as we departed Drew Harbour and headed to Tenedos Bay in Desolation Sound.

Tuesday, June 23, 2020

2020 Georgetown TX to Campbell River BC, Canada


Georgetown TX to Campbell River BC – 2366 miles



Day 1 - Georgetown TX to Cuba NM – 765 miles

Due to Covid 19, we opted to drive the 2366 miles from our home in Georgetown Texas to Campbell River BC Canada, where our boat was docked for the winter. We felt we were in control and safer even though this was a long trip.

We elected to drive the less travelled route, hoping that we could limit our exposure to the virus.  Armed with our masks, gloves, hand sanitizer, disinfectant wipes and spray, we departed home at 5am. We carried picnic lunches in our cooler, planning to stop and eat in outdoor picnic areas or inside the car.

We spent our first night at Chaco Lodge, a B&B in Cuba New Mexico, a remote town away from any virus hot spots. Our accommodation was out of town and we were the only guests in the two- apartment complex.

After checking in, we learned that the only dine-in restaurant open was El Bruno’s. They had just opened with restrictions. Seating was socially-distanced and all employees were masked and wearing gloves. Once seated with an adult beverage, our comfort level increased and we were treated to a delicious Mexican meal, surpassing all expectations.

Our long 12.5hour drive, followed by a great meal left us happy to enjoy some wine in the backyard of our accommodation. 


The setting sun and rising full moon was quite spectacular. Cuba New Mexico is at an elevation of almost seven thousand feet. 



Exhausted, we enjoyed a good nights sleep in the cool, high plain, mountain air.
Breakfast was included with our lodging, normally served at the Chaco Grill but since there was no dine-in, we had a great breakfast burrito and coffee in the car.

Day 2 – Cuba NM to Burley ID – 699 miles

Another long day of travel, taking us through the northwest corner of New Mexico, southwest corner of Colorado, Utah and into Idaho. We opted to overnight at the Hampton Inn in Burley. The hotel was spotless and all employees were wearing masks.

Outside of the hotel staff wearing masks, it seemed as though it was business as usual. No masks or social distancing. We ate at a steakhouse and requested outdoor dining, but once we saw the completely full patio, we opted to dine inside, which was empty. Our server told us that they wore masks for the first couple of days they were open but then their boss said not to bother …… scary!

Breakfast was available at the hotel but no self serve, it was served to your table. Hotel occupancy was less than 50%, making social distancing compliant.

Day 3 – Burley ID to Burlington WA – 719 miles

We have certainly seen some beautiful, ever changing scenery but these long travel days are starting to get old!

Washington was a mix of caution and compliance in the larger communities close to Seattle,  and absolutely no precautions or masks in the rural areas such as Yakima, which has a high number of confirmed Covid cases. Although we researched and did not stop for any reason in places with high infections, it was scary to see the complacency of so many people.

We stayed at the Hampton Inn in Burlington for 2 nights. Again, the employees followed protocol and wore masks. Housekeeping service was not available for stays less than 4 day, which was fine with us. Each day a bag was left outside the room, replenishing towels and toiletries. It was comforting to know that once you entered your room, it became your safe place. Breakfast was limited and guests were required to eat in their rooms. All public areas were closed off.

Restaurants were not open for dine-in, take out only. Five Guys Burgers and an Asian restaurant were across the street from the hotel so we patronized both for dinners, dining in our room.

Day 4 - Provisioning in Burlington WA

After a good nights sleep, we headed out to Costco and Trader Joe’s for non-perishable groceries required for our 14 day quarantine time once we cross the Canadian border. I am pleased to report that both Costco and Trader Joe’s in Washington state were exercising precautions and permitting entry only if wearing a mask. Costco was handing out masks to anyone arriving without one. Both stores were controlling the number of shoppers in the store at any one time.

Day 5 - Canada Here We Come
Another early start. We wanted to arrive at the border by 8am and had an hour drive to get there. Having no idea how long the process would take, we wanted to allow plenty of time if needed at the border and still be able to make our ferry reservation at 12:45.

The border remains closed to all but Canadian citizens and essential travel. We were fine entering with our Canadian passports. Once we satisfied Canada Customs and British Columbia Department of Health that we had a self-sufficient, safe quarantine plan that kept us isolated from others, we were granted entry but required to comply with a mandatory 14 day quarantine. We were requested to remain in our vehicle during transit and use drive through windows for food. If we required fuel or bathroom breaks we were to wear a mask and social distance. 

After clearing Customs, we made our way to the Tawassen ferry. We were early and able to change our reservation for an earlier crossing. Due to Covid, passengers were requested to remain in their vehicles for the duration of the 2 hour crossing to Nanaimo. After disembarking from the ferry, we had an uneventful 1.5 hour drive to the marina in Campbell River.



We were thankful that the dock hands greeted us with carts and transported our groceries and belongings from the car to the boat. Perishables were put in the fridge, a light dinner and some wine followed before another good nights sleep. Unpacking will wait until tomorrow.










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