Tenedos Bay, Desolation Sound

Desolation Sound

Mid-morning, we departed Powell River, just south of Lund heading to the popular, scenic Desolation Sound. Winds had subsided and seas were calm on this sunny, warm morning.

About an hour out, just abeam Lund, we were approached by the RCMP vessel requesting permission to come aboard and conduct a safety and security check. They pulled alongside and one officer climbed onboard. Since we are flying the US flag, they were interested in where and when we checked in with Customs & Immigration. The officer was friendly and professional, checking our passports and clearance number, as well as checking for lifejackets, current flares and insurance coverage.

Tenedos Bay, Desolation Sound 6/21/2019

We made it safely to Tenedos Bay, a large, sheltered anchorage, where we planned to wait out the 25-30 knot winds forecast for the next two days.

The bottom was rocky, but we were secure with our 110lb Bruce anchor and 250’ of chain holding us in place. We were so protected, it was hard to imagine the strong winds bowing elsewhere.
BC Parks has installed chains anchored into the rock so that boats can anchor then stern tie to shore by looping a rope through the chin and tie back to the boat.

The anchorage was almost empty with plenty of available swing room, so most boats did not stern-tie.

The weather was pleasant, so we took a dinghy ride and beached it at the start of the trail to Unwin Lake, a freshwater lake, supposedly warm enough to swim in. After hiking through the forest for a little over half a mile, and after following a couple of forks in the trail, we gave up, unable to find a path down to the waters edge. Upon reaching the dinghy, some frequent visitors informed us that we had to walk across the logs at the end of the trail to reach the water. We decided that it was not warm enough to warrant going back to the lake.
Happy hour was enjoyed in the sunshine on our back deck.

Tomorrow morning we depart for Prideaux Haven, just about 10 miles away. Weather is expected to be calm so we will tow the dinghy for this short trip.

Ballet Bay & Powell River

Ballet Bay 6/19/2019

The return run down Jervis Inlet to Malaspina Strait was uneventful. The wind was freshening as the morning progressed and was on the nose at 20knots when we decided to tuck into Ballet Bay and hide from the forecasted 30 knot winds during the afternoon.

The boat was salt encrusted from the ocean spray as we cautiously navigated our way into the cozy, calm respite of Ballet Bay.

We spent a quiet day aboard.

Powell River 6/20/2019

Early next morning, before the wind came up, we headed to Powell River for the day. The visitor dockage is mixed in with commercial fishing vessels and requires full attention while operating in tight quarters. Power is available and often requires a loaner extension from the marina. Staff was most helpful, delivering an extra power cord and checking us in right at the slip.

After docking, it was time to give this salt cove

red boat a hose down.

Everyone we encountered in Powell River was welcoming and very helpful. We walked to the hardware store, looking for a replacement phone charger for our sat-phone. They did not have one but suggested one of the phone stores in the mall, up the hill. A local gentleman kindly offered to drive us up to the mall and we walked back, downhill all the way. The lady at the phone store did not have what we were looking for but said she had a box of old chargers and would check to see if any would work. Voila! She had 2 and said since they were no use to her, we could have them both.

The walk down to the marina was pleasant and we stopped at Snickers, a Greek restaurant for a refreshing beer. They have a lovely grape vine covered patio, with a fantastic view looking out over the water.

Coastal Cookery was highly rated on Trip Advisor and recommended by the fellow who drove us to the mall. We had a delightful appetizer dinner on the patio, overlooking the harbor. Food and service were excellent.

A pleasant one-day stop in Powell River.

Malibu Rapids

Malibu Rapids, the entrance and exit to Princess Louisa Inlet

If ever there was any doubt, believe me, KAOS still reigns!


Following an uneventful 5 hour run up Jervis Inlet, Prince of Wales Reach and Princess Louisa Reach, we arrived at the Malibu Rapids, the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet and Chatterbox Falls. The ideal time to transit the rapids is at slack high tide, before the tide reverses. Upon checking several tide tables online, Alan concluded that 5:20pm was the desired time to transit. Upon our 4:50pm arrival, we heard several small, local boats announce their intentions to enter the rapids on the VHF radio. A couple of boats were milling around, with one small Ranger Tug giving it a shot, but turning back. We couldn’t see all the way into the rapids but could see occasional white froth, which should have been our first clue that the tide was still on flood.

The captain decided to give it a shot, and that was mistake #2. He knew it was a sharp “S” turn and needed to be under power. He increased the rpm as we entered the tight “S” turn and encountered some very fast flowing water. All was well until we hit a vortex of water as we exited the last sharp turn. The boat heeled hard to starboard as it spat us out. Stuff was flying all over the place, including the TV and BBQ. Thankfully, nothing and no-one was damaged although the captain was left with a bruised ego.

The little Ranger Tug followed right behind us and fared well.

We now know that if you see any white frothing water at a rapids – don’t enter!

As we arrived at Chatterbox Falls dock, we were asked where we came from. “You didn’t come through the rapids?” one fellow asked. When we answered yes, he said “you are my hero, slack high isn’t till 8:20pm! Hmmm, no wonder we had a rough ride! Next stop, we buy the Ports & Passes book with correct up to date tide information. We learned that many internet sites and GPS systems have incorrect information.

While Alan made an error in judgement, his boat handling skills and experience got us through unscathed. Many lessons learned here!
Next day we dinghied back to Malibu Lodge and Rapids to observe and check out the rapids.

We encountered rough waters and a boat transiting at less than desirable transit time.

Prior to departing Chatterbox Falls, we checked and re-checked slack high tide was at 7am and confirmed the same with other departing vessels. Smooth sailing! What a difference transiting at the correct time made.

Chatterbox Falls. Princess Louisa Inlet

Chatterbox Falls


Awe inspiring! Breath taking! Spectacular!  This is one of Mother Nature’s masterpieces and adjectives are simply inadequate when trying to describe Princess Louisa Inlet and the magnificent Chatter Box Falls. That being said, I will let the photos speak for themselves.

Malibu Lodge and entrance to the Rapids

Looking down the fjord from the dock

One of the cruising blogs describe Chatterbox Falls and Princess Louisa Inlet as “spiritual”, what a fitting description!

Notice the tree precariously perched in these smaller falls

Far inland, approached from the Strait of Georgia by way of Jervis Inlet, Princess Louisa Inlet has a charm and scenic beauty that must be seen and experienced.

The magnificent granite-walled gorge has been carved by glaciers from the past. The snow-tipped mountains rise sharply from the water’s edge to heights in excess of 7,000 feet. The inlet is deep, reaching depths of up to 1500’.

Chatterbox Falls is located at the head of the inlet and cascades 120 feet to the inlet below.

During spring, run-off from the snow melt creates about 60 cascading waterfalls all emptying into Princess Louisa Inlet.

Other than the odd float plane, travel by sea is the only way to get here.

Early morning calm, looking down the fjord

The privilege of enjoying this bit of paradise comes through the generosity and foresight of James F. “Mac” Macdonald who first saw Princess Louisa Inlet in 1919. Mr. Macdonald remembered the spectacular beauty of the inlet as he travelled over the world. In 1926, after years of prospecting in Nevada, “Mac” struck it rich. With his new- found riches, he was able to attain his real Eldorado: Princess Louise Inlet. He obtained the land surrounding Chatterbox Falls in 1927 and built a log cabin that was tragically destroyed by fire in 1940.

For years, “Mac” acted as host to visiting yachtsmen and sailors. “This beautiful, peaceful haven should never belong to one individual,” he said. “I don't ever want it to be commercialized. Indians, trappers, loggers, fishermen and yachtsmen have always been welcome to any hospitality I had to offer. I have felt that I was only the custodian of the property for Nature and it has been my duty to extend every courtesy.”

In 1953, “Mac” made the decision to turn the property over to the yachtsmen of the Northwest. “In giving it to the boating public I feel as if I am completing a trust. It is one of the most spectacular beauty spots in the world,” he stated. “I am turning it over in perpetuity as an international project so that you, your children, and your children's children, ad infinitum, all may enjoy its peace and beauty as God created it, unspoiled by the hand of man.”

Looking upstream after exiting the rapids

Looking towards the falls area

Streams gush down the mountain and out to the inlet

The forest is full of interesting fauna, moss and ferns. Trees are massive

The dock from the beach at low tide

The falls from the beach at low tide

The power of the falls